Cut the oranges into quarters, then use a sharp serrated knife to remove the orange flesh so you’re left with 2-3mm of white pith and the peel (you can enjoy the orange flesh as a snack or save it for another recipe).

Cut the peel into 3-5mm strips, trimming the ends to create a neat point. Tip these into a large pan with the cinnamon stick and bay leaf, and cover generously with water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 2-3 mins. Strain through a sieve to remove any scum and impurities that rise to the surface, then rinse under cold water.

Return to the pan with 1.3 litres of fresh water and the gin. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 30 mins. Strain the cooking water into a jug and discard the cinnamon stick and bay leaf. Pour out some of the reserved water or add a splash of fresh water to make 500ml, then return this to the pan along with the orange peel.

Add 500g of granulated sugar, stir gently until fully dissolved, then bring to the boil, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for another 30 mins until the orange peel is translucent. Drain the orange slices through a sieve (see tip above), then arrange the strips of peel on a wire rack set over a baking tray, making sure the strips aren’t touching, or they will stick together. Heat the oven to 100C/80C fan/gas ½. Transfer the baking tray and rack with the peel on it to the oven and bake for 20-25 mins or until all the peel is dry to touch.

Spread the remaining 200g of sugar out on a large plate, then toss in the peel until each strip is evenly coated. Spread out the peel evenly in the sugar and leave to set at room temperature for 45 mins. Once set, the peel keeps in an airtight container for up to two months. Or melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water (or in the microwave in 20-second bursts), then dip half of each candied orange strip in the chocolate. Leave to set at room temperature on a sheet of baking paper.